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Here are the titles (linked) of all entries in my Climbing Log in order of their arrangement from the top to bottom. To access all of these entries on one page, click on the “a Climbing Log” label either below this entry or on the "Index" list of labels to the right. To access a single entry, click on its title here.
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Silver Moonlight
The Banshee Cry
Ancient Boundaries
High Slab Climbing
Nietzsche quote: On the Mountains of Truth
Photo: Zenwind high at Seneca Rocks
Gothics North Face
Minus 40 Degrees
The Coldest of Ice Climbs
Chouinard’s Gully
Roped Solo Technique (old style)
Encounter on a Rocky Ridge
The Frostbite Trip
Breath Control and Extreme Climbing
My Cousin
Purpose of my Climbing Log
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-Zenwind.
18 May 2008
Silver Moonlight
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(Part 1 of a 4-part saga about my September 1981 Adirondack trip. Part 2: “The Banshee Cry.” Part 3: “Ancient Boundaries.” Part 4: “High Slab Climbing.”)
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This was one of the most beautiful – as well as unusual -- nights I have ever spent in the mountains. It was the September Full Moon of 1981, and my objectives on this mini-expedition were Mt. Algonquin via traversing trail and Mt. Colden via its north face slab climb.
.
It was to be a lightweight and fast trip with minimal gear. Instead of a sleeping bag I used a half-bag with a parka, both out of good synthetics. No tent, just a 1-pound Gore-Tex bivy-sack, which was really only a water/wind-resistant mummy-shaped sleeping bag cover.
.
Starting from the Adirondack (ADK) Lodge Trailhead, I got a very late afternoon start straight up from Heart Lake to the summit of Mt. Algonquin, the second highest mountaintop in the ADK range, and the highest peak of the triple-peaked mountain mass that is also called MacIntyre Mountain.
.
Before reaching the Algonquin summit, I stopped to examine the nearby off-trail site where a B-52 had crashed in bad weather into the top of the mountain decades before. An engine-mount is still embedded in a crack.
.
On Algonquin’s summit I enjoyed a great view in all directions. It was a beautiful end to a beautiful autumn evening, but the air was fast becoming chilly and the sun was low. On the general summit area I found the only spot suitable for a bivouac, which was a small flat ledge about 40 yards from the summit, to its SE.
.
I took off my boots and cooked supper while sitting in my half-bag and parka. As I put my cooking gear away, I watched the sun go down on my right and the full moon rise on my left over Vermont. My feet were pointed south toward Avalanche Pass below and its beautiful lakes: Avalanche Lake and Lake Colden. My next objective, Mt. Colden’s north face, looked very steep and very big. Exhausted from a 10-hour drive and the hike up to the summit, I fell right asleep.
.
I woke up at midnight in a beautiful world of silver. There was no color, only shades of silver. I was disoriented at first, not least because the entire world seemed to be below me. The moon was centered in the south, looking me right in the face and reflecting brightly off the lakes below my feet. The whole universe was silver, the moon and sky above me, the mountains and valleys all around me and below me, and especially those lakes and streams below to the south. I saw a small glimmer in the distance that I finally identified as a silver waterfall on some mountainside far below.
.
The night was still and peaceful, and this was among the finest moments I have ever had in the mountains or anywhere else. In times like this, my heart aches because I want so much to show such beautiful mountain sights to family and friends. But they never choose to come this way, to make the effort of the ascent. So such beautiful experiences seem to be both the blessing and curse of a solo rambler like me.
.
I enjoyed the silver moonlit world around me and below me for as long as possible, trying to keep my eyes open and to sit up. But eventually I fell back asleep.
.
(This saga is continued in Parts 2, 3 and 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
(Part 1 of a 4-part saga about my September 1981 Adirondack trip. Part 2: “The Banshee Cry.” Part 3: “Ancient Boundaries.” Part 4: “High Slab Climbing.”)
.
This was one of the most beautiful – as well as unusual -- nights I have ever spent in the mountains. It was the September Full Moon of 1981, and my objectives on this mini-expedition were Mt. Algonquin via traversing trail and Mt. Colden via its north face slab climb.
.
It was to be a lightweight and fast trip with minimal gear. Instead of a sleeping bag I used a half-bag with a parka, both out of good synthetics. No tent, just a 1-pound Gore-Tex bivy-sack, which was really only a water/wind-resistant mummy-shaped sleeping bag cover.
.
Starting from the Adirondack (ADK) Lodge Trailhead, I got a very late afternoon start straight up from Heart Lake to the summit of Mt. Algonquin, the second highest mountaintop in the ADK range, and the highest peak of the triple-peaked mountain mass that is also called MacIntyre Mountain.
.
Before reaching the Algonquin summit, I stopped to examine the nearby off-trail site where a B-52 had crashed in bad weather into the top of the mountain decades before. An engine-mount is still embedded in a crack.
.
On Algonquin’s summit I enjoyed a great view in all directions. It was a beautiful end to a beautiful autumn evening, but the air was fast becoming chilly and the sun was low. On the general summit area I found the only spot suitable for a bivouac, which was a small flat ledge about 40 yards from the summit, to its SE.
.
I took off my boots and cooked supper while sitting in my half-bag and parka. As I put my cooking gear away, I watched the sun go down on my right and the full moon rise on my left over Vermont. My feet were pointed south toward Avalanche Pass below and its beautiful lakes: Avalanche Lake and Lake Colden. My next objective, Mt. Colden’s north face, looked very steep and very big. Exhausted from a 10-hour drive and the hike up to the summit, I fell right asleep.
.
I woke up at midnight in a beautiful world of silver. There was no color, only shades of silver. I was disoriented at first, not least because the entire world seemed to be below me. The moon was centered in the south, looking me right in the face and reflecting brightly off the lakes below my feet. The whole universe was silver, the moon and sky above me, the mountains and valleys all around me and below me, and especially those lakes and streams below to the south. I saw a small glimmer in the distance that I finally identified as a silver waterfall on some mountainside far below.
.
The night was still and peaceful, and this was among the finest moments I have ever had in the mountains or anywhere else. In times like this, my heart aches because I want so much to show such beautiful mountain sights to family and friends. But they never choose to come this way, to make the effort of the ascent. So such beautiful experiences seem to be both the blessing and curse of a solo rambler like me.
.
I enjoyed the silver moonlit world around me and below me for as long as possible, trying to keep my eyes open and to sit up. But eventually I fell back asleep.
.
(This saga is continued in Parts 2, 3 and 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
The Banshee Cry
.
(Part 2 of a 4-part saga about my September 1981 ADK trip.)
.
While bivouacking close to the summit of Mt. Algonquin, and after falling asleep to a beautifully calm midnight view of clear silver moonlight, I woke up at 3am to an entirely different world, one of chaos, loud blasting wind, and shards of torn cloud pin-wheeling past my face. The moon, now in the SW, was barely visible behind racing cloud formations.
.
Then I started to hear an absolutely unearthly sound, and it got steadily louder. It was unbelievably frightening, and I do not frighten that easily. It gives me chills as I recount it now, decades later. It was an earsplitting sound like a ghastly scream. All I could think of was legends of the “Cry of the Banshee.” It was blood-curdling and insanely loud. I was terrified. I could not explain it. In all my experiences, no natural forces could ever produce a sound like this.
.
I am not a superstitious person, but my emotional experience at that moment was as if there were, in actual reality, a raging supernatural demon out there, the kind of demon-greeter one could imagine meeting at the very Gates of Hell. I consulted my rational mind and easily agreed with it that only natural forces operate in the universe. But what the hell was making this ghastly noise? I could not even begin to rationally explain it.
.
Thinking that I absolutely must explore this weird phenomenon, I got out of my bivy gear and put my boots on. The screaming sound was coming from the summit, 40 yards away and a bit higher up to the NW of my bivy site. I put rocks on my gear so it would not blow away, and I started climbing toward the summit and the noise’s source. All the hairs on my body were actually bristling with fear, but I just had to check it out.
.
Moving toward the summit rocks, a gust of wind blew me off my feet. I got up and moved onward, crouching low, and the terrifying screaming sound just got louder. The final few yards were the scariest, as I was about to peek over the summit rocks.
.
Finally reaching the summit on all fours, facing into the full force of the wind, I looked over the far side of the mountain. Between me and the valley of the Olympic town of Lake Placid to the NW was a huge storm cloud. Its base was far below me and its top was far higher than the entire mountain range. And it was advancing straight toward me – fast.
.
“Oh,” I thought, “it’s just a storm.” (Albeit a really horrendous and scary storm.) That completely explained the unearthly screaming sound. It had simply been powerful wind racing over the summit rocks upwind of me. All clarified, I quickly headed back to my bivy site. This was a hell of a storm.
.
Back to my bivouac, I got out the only lightweight shelter I had packed, a one-pound Gore-Tex bivy sack. I got it over my half-bag and parka, but before zipping it closed I put all my other gear, including boots, into my pack and put heavy rocks on top of it all so it would not blow away. Zipped inside my bivy, I waited it out.
.
Wind gusts were so sudden and violent that they actually rocked me with each gust as I lay there, almost rolling me off the ledge -- and I was on the lee side of the summit. I could not sleep, and the storm just got worse, accompanied by more loud ghostly sounds.
.
Finally morning light came as the storm blew over. I felt quite beat. After all, I did not sleep much, and the fear in the night had exhausted me. It had become very cold and wet, and I knew I would not try climbing the smooth friction slab of Mt. Colden today in wet conditions, so I declared this a rest day.
.
(This saga continues in Parts 3 and 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
(Part 2 of a 4-part saga about my September 1981 ADK trip.)
.
While bivouacking close to the summit of Mt. Algonquin, and after falling asleep to a beautifully calm midnight view of clear silver moonlight, I woke up at 3am to an entirely different world, one of chaos, loud blasting wind, and shards of torn cloud pin-wheeling past my face. The moon, now in the SW, was barely visible behind racing cloud formations.
.
Then I started to hear an absolutely unearthly sound, and it got steadily louder. It was unbelievably frightening, and I do not frighten that easily. It gives me chills as I recount it now, decades later. It was an earsplitting sound like a ghastly scream. All I could think of was legends of the “Cry of the Banshee.” It was blood-curdling and insanely loud. I was terrified. I could not explain it. In all my experiences, no natural forces could ever produce a sound like this.
.
I am not a superstitious person, but my emotional experience at that moment was as if there were, in actual reality, a raging supernatural demon out there, the kind of demon-greeter one could imagine meeting at the very Gates of Hell. I consulted my rational mind and easily agreed with it that only natural forces operate in the universe. But what the hell was making this ghastly noise? I could not even begin to rationally explain it.
.
Thinking that I absolutely must explore this weird phenomenon, I got out of my bivy gear and put my boots on. The screaming sound was coming from the summit, 40 yards away and a bit higher up to the NW of my bivy site. I put rocks on my gear so it would not blow away, and I started climbing toward the summit and the noise’s source. All the hairs on my body were actually bristling with fear, but I just had to check it out.
.
Moving toward the summit rocks, a gust of wind blew me off my feet. I got up and moved onward, crouching low, and the terrifying screaming sound just got louder. The final few yards were the scariest, as I was about to peek over the summit rocks.
.
Finally reaching the summit on all fours, facing into the full force of the wind, I looked over the far side of the mountain. Between me and the valley of the Olympic town of Lake Placid to the NW was a huge storm cloud. Its base was far below me and its top was far higher than the entire mountain range. And it was advancing straight toward me – fast.
.
“Oh,” I thought, “it’s just a storm.” (Albeit a really horrendous and scary storm.) That completely explained the unearthly screaming sound. It had simply been powerful wind racing over the summit rocks upwind of me. All clarified, I quickly headed back to my bivy site. This was a hell of a storm.
.
Back to my bivouac, I got out the only lightweight shelter I had packed, a one-pound Gore-Tex bivy sack. I got it over my half-bag and parka, but before zipping it closed I put all my other gear, including boots, into my pack and put heavy rocks on top of it all so it would not blow away. Zipped inside my bivy, I waited it out.
.
Wind gusts were so sudden and violent that they actually rocked me with each gust as I lay there, almost rolling me off the ledge -- and I was on the lee side of the summit. I could not sleep, and the storm just got worse, accompanied by more loud ghostly sounds.
.
Finally morning light came as the storm blew over. I felt quite beat. After all, I did not sleep much, and the fear in the night had exhausted me. It had become very cold and wet, and I knew I would not try climbing the smooth friction slab of Mt. Colden today in wet conditions, so I declared this a rest day.
.
(This saga continues in Parts 3 and 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
Ancient Boundaries
.
(Part 3 of the 4-part September 1981 Adirondack saga.)
.
While still on Algonquin’s summit after the night of “Silver Moonlight” and “The Banshee Cry,” I took a side trip to hike over to the other, slightly lower, summits of this MacIntyre Mountain massif. These are Boundary Peak and Iroquois Peak, which few people visit although they are only several hundred yards off the main trail. This is a highly recommended detour.
.
The Native Indian tribes of the Algonquin to the north and the Iroquois to the south were said to have had boundaries between them through the center of the Adirondack Mountains, on a SW-NE line, and this boundary went right over the top of MacIntyre Mountain. The boundaries of their hunting grounds were defined by the watersheds.
.
You cannot really appreciate this from Algonquin peak alone; you must walk over Boundary Peak to Iroquois Peak (where you get a unique view of Wallface Mountain’s sheer east face and the wilds of Indian Pass in between). Then walk back to Boundary Peak and stand and look around.
.
Looking SW you see the line of great boundary passes dividing the watersheds of the range between Algonquin tribes to the north and Iroquois tribes to the south, e.g., Indian Pass. Then turn to look NE and you see the line of boundary passes continue to trend off in that direction, e.g., Hunter Pass. I know of no spot in the range where you can see the divide so well as at Boundary Peak, and that is the origin of its name.
.
The detour completed, I packed up and stumbled down the south trail off Algonquin toward Avalanche Pass and the lakes area. I studied Mt. Colden’s north face, my next objective, which loomed across the valley, as I descended. I bivouacked early in the Pass, looking for an early start the next morning.
.
(This saga continues in Part 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
(Part 3 of the 4-part September 1981 Adirondack saga.)
.
While still on Algonquin’s summit after the night of “Silver Moonlight” and “The Banshee Cry,” I took a side trip to hike over to the other, slightly lower, summits of this MacIntyre Mountain massif. These are Boundary Peak and Iroquois Peak, which few people visit although they are only several hundred yards off the main trail. This is a highly recommended detour.
.
The Native Indian tribes of the Algonquin to the north and the Iroquois to the south were said to have had boundaries between them through the center of the Adirondack Mountains, on a SW-NE line, and this boundary went right over the top of MacIntyre Mountain. The boundaries of their hunting grounds were defined by the watersheds.
.
You cannot really appreciate this from Algonquin peak alone; you must walk over Boundary Peak to Iroquois Peak (where you get a unique view of Wallface Mountain’s sheer east face and the wilds of Indian Pass in between). Then walk back to Boundary Peak and stand and look around.
.
Looking SW you see the line of great boundary passes dividing the watersheds of the range between Algonquin tribes to the north and Iroquois tribes to the south, e.g., Indian Pass. Then turn to look NE and you see the line of boundary passes continue to trend off in that direction, e.g., Hunter Pass. I know of no spot in the range where you can see the divide so well as at Boundary Peak, and that is the origin of its name.
.
The detour completed, I packed up and stumbled down the south trail off Algonquin toward Avalanche Pass and the lakes area. I studied Mt. Colden’s north face, my next objective, which loomed across the valley, as I descended. I bivouacked early in the Pass, looking for an early start the next morning.
.
(This saga continues in Part 4.)
.
-Zenwind.
High Slab Climbing
.
(Part 4, final part of the September 1981 ADK saga.)
.
The next day I climbed Mt. Colden’s north face as an easy free-solo rock climb (or “slide”/”slab” climb) in hiking boots with no rock gear. It is not too technical, but is very high, the entire face being somewhere under 1,000 feet high.
.
You start by going up a waterfall gully (geologically called a trapdike) on the left of the face, which is an easy rock climb if not too wet. At a certain point, you escape the gully to the right when you can climb out onto the slab. This slab is a long, huge, moderately steep and very exposed friction climb to the top, with no real foot- or hand-holds, and very little places to put climbing anchors even if you had them. You just rely on balance and friction techniques – and dry rock.
.
(This Colden’s north face is also one of the classic Adirondack ice and snow climbs in winter, if the snow on the slab is consolidated enough. One climbs up the now-frozen waterfall/trapdike and then out onto the moderate snow climb of the slab. I have never got the chance to do this as an ice climb, as it was never in good condition when I was ready for it, but it is still at the top of my list.)
.
The rock slab was not too bad for me. The exposure was not freaking me out as I moved up, as I had been climbing a lot of rock that year. I was hundreds of feet up, at the top of the slab section and very close to the summit, when I came to the little 12-foot wall at the top of the slab that blocked the way to the wooded summit.
.
But there was a thin layer of morning ice glaze on this wall, right where I did not need it, and I was a bit concerned about what to do. Down-climbing was out of the question, and there did not appear to be any escape off the slab to the right or left. I could not even rest comfortably on the slanting slab, and my legs were starting to cramp up badly. I consulted the climbing guidebook and realized that I had no choice but to go up the icy wall.
.
It was a bit dicey. If you fall off this short wall, you land on the upper reaches of the steeply-sloping slab with nothing to grab, so you are looking at a long, sliding, bouncing and accelerating skid of hundreds and hundreds of feet down into the trees below. Not pretty. My concern was getting close to real fear as my leg muscles started to cramp into knots.
.
I actually remember very little about the specific climbing moves that got me up that last short iced wall. All I remember about that spot was the battle to control my fear and to think, to look carefully at the ground I must climb, and to act decisively. But I somehow did gain the summit of Colden, which is somewhat disappointing as a summit because it has trees that obscure any 360-degree view.
.
I descended the west ridge, picked up my gear and very humbly limped down the valley trails back to the roadhead.
.
-Zenwind.
(Part 4, final part of the September 1981 ADK saga.)
.
The next day I climbed Mt. Colden’s north face as an easy free-solo rock climb (or “slide”/”slab” climb) in hiking boots with no rock gear. It is not too technical, but is very high, the entire face being somewhere under 1,000 feet high.
.
You start by going up a waterfall gully (geologically called a trapdike) on the left of the face, which is an easy rock climb if not too wet. At a certain point, you escape the gully to the right when you can climb out onto the slab. This slab is a long, huge, moderately steep and very exposed friction climb to the top, with no real foot- or hand-holds, and very little places to put climbing anchors even if you had them. You just rely on balance and friction techniques – and dry rock.
.
(This Colden’s north face is also one of the classic Adirondack ice and snow climbs in winter, if the snow on the slab is consolidated enough. One climbs up the now-frozen waterfall/trapdike and then out onto the moderate snow climb of the slab. I have never got the chance to do this as an ice climb, as it was never in good condition when I was ready for it, but it is still at the top of my list.)
.
The rock slab was not too bad for me. The exposure was not freaking me out as I moved up, as I had been climbing a lot of rock that year. I was hundreds of feet up, at the top of the slab section and very close to the summit, when I came to the little 12-foot wall at the top of the slab that blocked the way to the wooded summit.
.
But there was a thin layer of morning ice glaze on this wall, right where I did not need it, and I was a bit concerned about what to do. Down-climbing was out of the question, and there did not appear to be any escape off the slab to the right or left. I could not even rest comfortably on the slanting slab, and my legs were starting to cramp up badly. I consulted the climbing guidebook and realized that I had no choice but to go up the icy wall.
.
It was a bit dicey. If you fall off this short wall, you land on the upper reaches of the steeply-sloping slab with nothing to grab, so you are looking at a long, sliding, bouncing and accelerating skid of hundreds and hundreds of feet down into the trees below. Not pretty. My concern was getting close to real fear as my leg muscles started to cramp into knots.
.
I actually remember very little about the specific climbing moves that got me up that last short iced wall. All I remember about that spot was the battle to control my fear and to think, to look carefully at the ground I must climb, and to act decisively. But I somehow did gain the summit of Colden, which is somewhat disappointing as a summit because it has trees that obscure any 360-degree view.
.
I descended the west ridge, picked up my gear and very humbly limped down the valley trails back to the roadhead.
.
-Zenwind.
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